This article has been adapted from handouts pertinent to HEX's very first Confidence Builder Workshop
The following tips are written to enhance the format of a professional training program. There are exceptions to every rule, so none of these things should be seen as a “be-all-end-all” solution to a behavior problem. This is merely a list of suggestions, a clearly written document to tape to your refrigerator for the whole family to see, to help you assert Leadership Without Confrontation, and henceforth bring your dog to a more balanced place.
1) First of all, teach your dog the basic cues: Sit, Down, Stay, Come, Heel and the under-rated Sit at Side (under the guidance of a qualified professional as needed) so you have this basic language of communication. You should be able to execute each of these without a treat in your hand.
1) First of all, teach your dog the basic cues: Sit, Down, Stay, Come, Heel and the under-rated Sit at Side (under the guidance of a qualified professional as needed) so you have this basic language of communication. You should be able to execute each of these without a treat in your hand.
| 2) Teach your dog to Wait, and use this cue frequently throughout your day, at every threshold at which you have the opportunity, especially the front door or any other door where there is a lot of traffic or excitement. Help your dog practice impulse control by taking the time & having the patience to wait until he is in an appropriate state of mind to move forward. |  |
Which brings me to my next point...
3) Remember to be aware of your dog's state of mind. State of mind is even more important than behavior, meaning: just because I ask my dog to sit, and he sits, does not mean it's time for a "good boy!" It's not time for a "good boy!" if he is sitting, but staring down a target (like a stranger or an unfamiliar dog) with ill intentions at the same time that he executes the "sit." In that case, change your dog's state of mind by physically walking him (away from the target briefly in a semi-circle,) redirecting this attention (perhaps a game of "Touch?"), or even something as simple as "Watch Me" if his fixation is mild.
3) Remember to be aware of your dog's state of mind. State of mind is even more important than behavior, meaning: just because I ask my dog to sit, and he sits, does not mean it's time for a "good boy!" It's not time for a "good boy!" if he is sitting, but staring down a target (like a stranger or an unfamiliar dog) with ill intentions at the same time that he executes the "sit." In that case, change your dog's state of mind by physically walking him (away from the target briefly in a semi-circle,) redirecting this attention (perhaps a game of "Touch?"), or even something as simple as "Watch Me" if his fixation is mild.
4) “Anything practiced gets easier to do, whether than behavior is positive or negative.” –CLS
This applies to humans as well as canines. If you allow your dog to practice barking out the window, you may not see it right away, but that behavior will INDEED get easier for your canine to perform. The opposite holds true as well: if I require my dog to practice sitting to put his leash on every day, THAT behavior gets easier to do also. If I have him practice waiting for his treats, waiting to go outside, or to play gently with his siblings, that too will get easier.
Use this principle to your advantage.
This applies to humans as well as canines. If you allow your dog to practice barking out the window, you may not see it right away, but that behavior will INDEED get easier for your canine to perform. The opposite holds true as well: if I require my dog to practice sitting to put his leash on every day, THAT behavior gets easier to do also. If I have him practice waiting for his treats, waiting to go outside, or to play gently with his siblings, that too will get easier.
Use this principle to your advantage.
5) Do NOT allow your dog to drag you out the door or pull on leash. If this is something you have trouble with, time to get a professional involved. In one short session, this can be fixed.
6) Do NOT repeat commands. Do NOT repeat commands. Do NOT repeat commands. Do NOT repeat commands. Do NOT repeat commands. (Annoying, isn’t it? Your dog feels the same.)
7) Keep the intensity level inside your home (and outside your home, for that matter) at a 5 out of 10. Anything above that intensity level should be especially under your control, structured, and begun & completed by you. (i.e. tug-o-war.)
See _https://www.facebook.com/pit.bull.trainer/videos/10205830009448596/
See _https://www.facebook.com/pit.bull.trainer/videos/10205830009448596/
8) Remember: your dog needs an outlet for his physical energy. This means physical exercise, and your big back yard alone does not cut it. If the dog never leaves the back yard, it’s like living in a fishbowl. Give him the structured, physically-demanding activities he craves (under the advisement of a trusted veterinarian) and watch his anxious energy dissipate. (Examples include back-packing, jogging, fetch, Find It – see: http://www.hexdogs.com/blog-this/game-with-your-k9-teach-find-it, trick-training…)
9) Keep your comings & goings soft, quiet & low-key, especially when dealing with behavioral issues. (This is one of the simplest but most difficult things to ask a pet owner to do, I know.)
10) The greatest mistake that pet owners make in dog rehabilitation, witnessed in my experience, is doing TOO MUCH, TOO SOON. Giving too much freedom too early gives your dog the opportunity to practice the exact behaviors you don’t approve of, AND “Anything practiced gets easier to do, whether that behavior is positive or negative.”
11) When determining your goals in modifying the behavior of your dog, ask yourself the following question: is this something my dog wants to do… or is this something I want my dog to do? Does my dog enjoy going to the dog park (to be accosted & mounted by unruly dogs, for example) or do I want to go to the dog park? Evaluate & modify your goals as needed and challenge yourselves while staying realistic.
12) Crate-train. Even if you don’t think you need to. See Kim Chatha’s article: http://www.hexdogs.com/blog-this/give-me-my-damn-crate-back
13) In a few words: dog backpacks! See my article: http://www.hexdogs.com/blog-this/whats-the-deal-with-dog-backpacks-2nd-addition-with-new-links-commentary
14) Provide at least one new experience per dog per day. That helps keep your dog on the top of his mental game, alert, attentive, excited for life, and, when done properly, reinforces your relationship as the one he can trust to lead him through new & potentially anxiety-producing circumstances. If you’re going to get gas, throw the dog in the car. Dunkin’ Donuts? Strap him in and bring him along. Spend two minutes working on a new trick. Bring him to a different part of the yard than usual and play Find It. It doesn’t have to be time-consuming; just do something new!
15) Always, always: #SafetyFirst. Especially when it comes to safety involving children. Err on the side of caution. No harm can come from taking things too slowly... a lot of harm can come from rushing things too quickly.
16) Do NOT allow your dog to put his weight up against you in any way, shape, or form without invitation. Do NOT allow your dog to lean on you, put paws on you, sit on your feet, nudge your hands, nose their way under your arm, etc. Yes, you need to ignore these behaviors. It’s not that these behaviors are unacceptable under ANY circumstances. It’s that these behaviors are unacceptable under these circumstances (i.e. circumstances under which you are trying to modify behavior & provide stronger leadership/guidance). For that reason, if you entertain these behaviors, they should be invited & initiated by you.
17) If you have a fearful or nervous dog, you MUST learn to be your dog’s advocate in order to have any success beyond a certain point, especially regarding socialization to strangers. When someone comes up to you and says, “Can I pet your dog?” (or worse, if they don’t even ask & proceed to reach for him), it truly matters not if your dog decides to bite at that particular moment. If your dog clearly doesn’t want to be petted, than be your dog’s advocate and say “NO. We are in training.” You don’t need to apologize. If your dog can’t trust you to protect him, he will never move beyond a certain point in his progress.
18) If your dog makes poor decisions, don't put him in decision-making positions.
18) If your dog makes poor decisions, don't put him in decision-making positions.
19) "You get what you pet." -KC
A lot of people don't even realize when they are caressing their dogs. If your dog is displaying stress behaviors (growling, cowering, shaking), now is NOT the time for affection. I don't necessarily subscribe to the idea that you cannot soothe your canine through touch, HOWEVER, we are all definitely in agreement that during these stressful times, what your dog needs from you is leadership, not coddling. Your nervous pup could be better soothed with gentle but firm redirection (physically walking in a semi-circle, perhaps) and positive association with stress-inducing stimulus.
A lot of people don't even realize when they are caressing their dogs. If your dog is displaying stress behaviors (growling, cowering, shaking), now is NOT the time for affection. I don't necessarily subscribe to the idea that you cannot soothe your canine through touch, HOWEVER, we are all definitely in agreement that during these stressful times, what your dog needs from you is leadership, not coddling. Your nervous pup could be better soothed with gentle but firm redirection (physically walking in a semi-circle, perhaps) and positive association with stress-inducing stimulus.
***Please view all of these things as tips to help you along on a well-crafted training/behavior modification program. Cases involving aggression or anxiety especially should always involve the guidance of a qualified professional, and resolution should not be attempted on your own.
***These are a list of ideas, tips & tricks that can make a massive difference in the life of a dog, but all of these things must be done with consistency and in conjunction with an individual program to see results. Also worth noting, when changing the rules, you may see an increase in the undesirable behavior for a time. This is because your dog is persisting in something that has always worked! At this time in particular, YOU must have more persistence and determination than your dog. Depending on your dog, that, my friends, may be asking a lot! But you can do it. It may take days, it may take weeks, it may take months, it could even take years to break through the truly tough stuff, BUT with consistency you WILL see behavior reliably change.
Email hexdogs@gmail.com with any questions or to take your next step in training. We’re here for those who are 100% committed.
***These are a list of ideas, tips & tricks that can make a massive difference in the life of a dog, but all of these things must be done with consistency and in conjunction with an individual program to see results. Also worth noting, when changing the rules, you may see an increase in the undesirable behavior for a time. This is because your dog is persisting in something that has always worked! At this time in particular, YOU must have more persistence and determination than your dog. Depending on your dog, that, my friends, may be asking a lot! But you can do it. It may take days, it may take weeks, it may take months, it could even take years to break through the truly tough stuff, BUT with consistency you WILL see behavior reliably change.
Email hexdogs@gmail.com with any questions or to take your next step in training. We’re here for those who are 100% committed.
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